
Contents
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Food and Place(s) in Italian Harlem Food and Place(s) in Italian Harlem
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Food, Race, and Power: Blacks, Puerto Ricans, and the Italian Descent into Whiteness Food, Race, and Power: Blacks, Puerto Ricans, and the Italian Descent into Whiteness
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The Taste of the Slum: Making Place(s) across the Boundaries of Race and Taste The Taste of the Slum: Making Place(s) across the Boundaries of Race and Taste
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Food, Place, Emotions, and the Making of Italian Harlem Food, Place, Emotions, and the Making of Italian Harlem
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Many Happy Returns: Food, Memory, and the Creation of Cara Harlem Many Happy Returns: Food, Memory, and the Creation of Cara Harlem
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3 An American Foodscape: Food, Place, and Race in Italian Harlem
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Published:November 2013
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Abstract
This chapter explores the interrelationships among food, place, and race in Italian Harlem and shows that the Italian immigrant community was also a race-inflected geography of food consumption. During the 1930s, Italian Americans were hit hard by the Depression. Italians were disproportionately represented among the recipients of city and federal subsidies, particularly in Harlem, where the poorest among them lived. However, in those same years, Italian immigrants and their children managed to make East Harlem their home in America through a careful deployment of social, material, and emotional responses. This chapter examines how Italians in Harlem carved distinctive Italian foodscapes into “their” neighborhood that gave the community a secure sense of place. Italian Americans created around them a sensually familiar world filled with the tastes, aromas, and colors of Italian food, provided by “ethnic” restaurants, food stores, and street markets that dotted the neighborhood. In Italian Harlem, the production, commerce, preparation, and consumption of food gave rise to a distinct urban ethnic foodscape and smellscape that shaped social identities.
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